Getting lost in “The Garden City”

Victoria is the capital city of British Columbia, without feeling like the capital city. It also happens to be a city, in addition to its “more popular” cousin Vancouver, that is very easy to get to from the Pacific Northwest, and overall West Coast in general.

The thing with me is that I have a hard time doing weekend trips, unless they are to one specific place, for one specific reason. I am one of those “I want to do everything because I don’t know when I’m coming back here” types of people, and therefore try to pack as much into a trip as possible. This is also why I tend to be more of a slow traveler and go away for a minimum of a week at a time (if I’m going overseas it’s a minimum of 2 weeks) vs. getting off on quick weekend getaways. This was a factor for my trip to Victoria.

When deciding on where to go for my first trip in Western Canada I went back and forth between Vancouver and Victoria. Both of which seemed like great cities to visit, with pluses and minuses attached to both as well. Ultimately, I decided on Victoria because of these three factors:

It’s smaller than Vancouver, therefore easier to do in a weekend (and also is apparently cheaper)
It had the “European feel” that Vancouver was missing
I was visiting in the winter, wanted it to feel like the holidays, and I wanted to experience seasonal winter activities aka Butchart Gardens

This is where the “weekend warrior” aspect comes into play. If you want to maximize the 2-3 days you have off, feel satisfied that you got a good impression of a city, and leave without the regret of “I didn’t do x so now I have to come back” feeling then choose Victoria over Vancouver. Can you do Vancouver in a weekend? Yes. Will you leave with things still on your bucket list? Most likely. This is why Victoria, in my opinion, is a better weekend trip, and Vancouver should be reserved for a longer weekend or weeklong+ trip.

How to get to Victoria

Tip to Note: Although Victoria makes a great weekend trip, and it’s super close to Seattle, you are still leaving the United States, so keep in mind if you are not a Canadian citizen already living in Canada a PASSPORT IS REQUIRED.

The cool thing about Victoria is where it is located. You are only about 100 km (60 mi) from Vancouver, as well as being about 100 km (60 mi) from Seattle as well. Making it perfectly placed within the larger cities of the Pacific Northwest.

Getting to Victoria from the West Coast:

If you live in Oregon, Washington or British Columbia getting to Victoria is a simple journey via land.

Tip to Note: If you plan to go some exploring outside of the city a car is highly recommended and also means that you are going to have to plan for that when taking a ferry (as not all ports will allow cars). But if you want to stay in the city and soak up all that Victoria has to offer then leave your car in the lot stateside and expand your travel options a bit.

FROM SEATTLE. WASHINGTON

From Seattle it’s a simple car + ferry ride and there are multiple ports to choose from – the Clipper passenger-only ferry from Seattle (which operates year round), or the Coho ferry leaving from Port Washington (which is right across the Strait of Juan de Fuca). So if you do decide to bring a car, as per the tip above, remember you’ll need to head over to Port Washington in order to bring it with you.

FROM PORTLAND, OREGON

From Portland you’re about a 3.5 to 4.5 hour drive to the ferry, depending on which port you leave from. After you get on the ferry it’s about another hour to hour and a half and you’re pulling into Victoria!

FROM VANCOUVER, BC

If you already live in Canada (lucky you!) you also have a couple of options when it comes to getting to Victoria. BC Ferries cruise through the Strait of Georgia, and the bonus of these ferries are the stunning views, the breathtaking scenery (especially in Active Pass), and the chance to spot marine wildlife such as whales, dolphins, and sea lions – you may even get lucky enough to spot the PNW’s most famous resident: the Orca whale. The ferry in BC departs from the Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal, which is 30 minutes south of Vancouver. The entire ride takes a couple of hours and you will arrive at the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal in Sidney (which is 30 minutes north of Victoria). Keep this in mind when you are planning out how to get into Victoria from the terminal.

If crossing via sea isn’t your forte, then there are a couple of other cool options:

You can take a float plane! Harbour Air Seaplanes (which has frequent departures) takes off from the Vancouver harbor and about 40 minutes later lands at the Victoria harbour. It’s a super quick journey, which not only allows for more exploration time and allows for unreal views over Vancouver, the Gulf Islands in the Strait of Georgia, and the Victoria harbor as you arrive. You DEFINITELY need to make reservations as these are small planes, with limited seating capacity, that fill up fast!

Tip to Note: If you want a window seat (which you are never going to regret) make sure you arrive early (or pay a small fee) to secure one.

Another way to arrive to Victoria in style from Vancouver is by Helijet. It’s another option with soaring views, and the surprisingly smooth helicopter ride takes only 35 minutes. There are several flights a day between Vancouver’s waterfront and Victoria’s.

Tips to Note: If you have kids make sure to book in advance so you can take advantage of their Kids Fly Free offer, which allows for ONE child 12 years or younger to fly free with a fare-paying adult. Additionally, Helijet has a luggage allowance of 50 lbs per passenger!

FROM ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD

If you don’t live in, or are currently visiting, the convenient locations of Oregon, Washington or Vancouver, flying is going to be your best bet.

Even if you aren’t currently located in the Pacific Northwest you can still fly into one of the region’s major airports (in Seattle, Portland or Vancouver) and then continue your journey from there (following the steps I mentioned above).

WHY YOU SHOULD VISIT VICTORIA, BC

If you’re a history nerd like me Victoria is definitely calling to you. Named after Queen Victoria (because at the time she was also the Queen of British North America) Victoria happens to be one of the oldest cities in the Pacific Northwest! It’s because of this that the city still has a large number of historic buildings, two of the most notable being its two most famous landmarks, the Parliament Buildings (which were finished at the end of the 1800s and are where the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia meets), and the Fairmont Empress hotel (which opened in 1908 and you can READ ALL ABOUT HERE).

Another cool thing about Victoria is the Chinatown area, which is the second oldest in all of North America (after the Chinatown in San Francisco)! Fan Tan Alley is also one of the “narrowest streets in North America” and even if you just walk through it’s worth a stop.

Surprisingly there is an awesome food scene in Victoria so if you are a huge foodie and tasting the place you visit is high on your list know you will not be disappointed – and if you’re coming from the U.S. your dollar is going to go a lot further here, so splurge away!

I also can’t forget to mention the classic PNW rugged shoreline which features a long boardwalk path, multiple piers, beaches and an abundance of sea life. There are boat trips you can take from the harbor, houseboats to check out, places to eat with amazing views, and all of the cute otters and seals!

Even though Victoria is the capital of British Columbia it’s a small city, so you are not going to feel overwhelmed for a weekend trip. In reality you will most likely fall in love with the architecture, people, activities and scenery and try to figure out a way to return in another season.

WHEN YOU SHOULD VISIT VICTORIA, BC

Now I know there are people that prefer to travel in the summer, mainly due to the weather, but here me out. I suggest you think of Victoria as the perfect off-season getaway because the spirit of the holidays will be everywhere! And if you’re located on the western side of North America, and getting to NYC, Montreal or Quebec City is a little too hard towards the end of the year, Victoria makes for the perfect option!

The other thing when it comes to winter is the weather. But just know it may not be as bad as you think it will be! Because of Victoria’s location the weather tends to be milder year-round, which means you aren’t going to have to deal with the crazy cold and snow the rest of the country tends to be known for in the winter. But you will have to deal with that classic PNW element: rain. When I visited at the beginning of December it was chilly, but nothing that a medium jacket couldn’t handle, and only rained one afternoon out of the three days I was there.

The benefit of the summer is that it allows you to be warmer, but I don’t necessarily think it means you will be outside more. If you time it just right even if you are visiting during the off season, the weather will be pleasant enough that you can spend your mornings enjoying brunch and your afternoons outside exploring. If you do happen to encounter a rain shower it’s nothing a good museum or afternoon tea can solve.

WHERE TO STAY IN TO VICTORIA, BC

Abigail’s Hotel

I always encourage people to stay in a bed & breakfast for at least 2 nights of their trips, no matter where they go. There is something about a B&B that you won’t get in a hostel, or Airbnb or chain hotel. Abigail’s is a centrally located B&B that fully embraces the Tudor time period, and provides warm and personalized service you won’t find anywhere else – including some pretty fabulous meals cooked on-site by a very talented chef (who is also willing to accommodate any dietary issues).

Check the latest rates and availability for Abigail’s Hotel here

Fairmont Empress

You can’t go to Victoria and not experience a night at The Empress. Yes, you should visit the hotel for its Afternoon Tea, and beautiful holiday decorations in the winter, but The Empress is a night of indulgence you need to budget into your travel plans. The Empress opened in 1908 and is known for its Château-style design, stunning interiors, celebration of its west coast setting, and picturesque location on Victoria’s Inner Harbour. Surprisingly The Empress is also quite affordable considering it’s a luxury hotel – you can typically find room rates starting just under $200 a night – so you can indulge without breaking the bank.

Check the latest rates and availability for the Fairmont Empress here

WHAT TO DO IN VICTORIA, BC

Now that the logistics are out of the way it’s time to have some fun!

If shopping is your jam Victoria has got you covered with the Bay Centre (don’t forget to stop by Hudson’s Bay and pick up some swag)!

The Inner Harbour is the perfect spot to walk around and people watch and boasts some pretty amazing views of both the Parliament Buildings (you’ll feel like you’re staring at Hogwarts) and the Fairmont Empress (the “Castle on the Coast”).

As with the state of Washington whale watching is huge in this area so there are multiple tour companies which operate directly from the Inner Harbour allowing you to get a glimpse of the region’s famous orca whales.

Another waterside activity is walking out to the end of Breakwater at Dallas Road, out at Ogden Point. The main reason to take this walk, aside from the stunning views and sea otters you are most likely going to see playing and eating in the water, is the lighthouse. It’s dog friendly, is just over 1.5 kilometers in length (roundtrip) and will take you 30 minutes to go out and back. Ogden Point is also one of Victoria’s busiest harbors so you’ll get to see a bunch of activity during your walk. I spent a good hour to hour and a half here and had no regrets.

As I mentioned above you must head over to Fan Tan Alley in Chinatown. It’s gives off a complete Harry Potter vibe and there are multiple shops for you to pop into. Once you’re done walking through Fan Tan head a couple of blocks east to Victoria Public Market at the Hudson.

The Victoria Public Market is a foodie paradise, and due to the fact it’s located indoors you don’t need to worry about the weather to enjoy it. Located inside the historic Hudson building in the downtown area the market features local artisans, farmers, butchers, bakers, cheese-makers, preservers, brewers, vintners, florists and restaurateurs. It’s the perfect location to take a midday lunch break and pick up some delicious meats, cheeses, pies, baked goods, and oils and vinegars for your journey home. In addition to all of the items you can purchase there are also a handful of restaurant offerings including tacos to Japanese.

Afternoon Tea is a MUST when you are in Victoria! Victoria is literally “steeped” in British history, which makes it the perfect place to experience afternoon and high tea (which were introduced back in the 1840s). It’s a time-honored tradition with some West Coast flair mixed in. There are multiple tea rooms, loose leaf shops, and cafes throughout the city that offer the experience, with the MUST visit one being at the Fairmont Empress.

Because this is a winter visit you also have The Empress Hotel 16-foot tree, 7,500 ornaments in the hotel and the gingerbread holiday display to look forward to. The afternoon tea service also gets a little holiday truss up and additional hotel events throughout the season including:

Evening s’mores on the veranda from mid-November until right before Christmas: The hotel provides a variety of hot beverages and Christmas bites in addition to the DIY s’more kits that can be roasted over the first-come first-served fire pits.
A holiday cart full of classic festive treats in the Lobby Lounge: Featuring a selection of cakes, cookies, snacks, turkeys to go and even curated holiday baskets full of all of the sweet and savory goodies and beverages you could possibly want!

Christmas lights at the Victoria Parliament building

Because you are visiting in the winter there are a multitude of decorations to take in around the city. The parliament building is not only an impressive architectural sight during the day but at night it lights up with an impressive amount of Christmas lights. This is also where the annual lighting of the provincial Christmas tree (featuring 2,500 festive lights) takes place at the beginning of December, with festive outdoor performances and more music and seasonal treats inside the building.

No winter visit would be complete without a visit to Butchart Gardens – the ultimate holiday experience and display in town. Taking place from the beginning of December into January, Butchart Gardens gets a festive makeover featuring the 12 days of Christmas light display, and ice skating rink, and carolers.

Tip to note: If you arrived in Victoria without a car there are charter buses that leave from the front of the Empress Hotel (which you can book at the front desk), providing round-trip rides (40 minutes each way) to Butchart Gardens. My best advice, take the bus that will arrive an hour before sunset and then make sure you are on the last bus back into town.

When you start to get a little chilly from all that time outside admiring the lights and displays head inside to the Royal B.C. Museum, which in addition to its world-class galleries and exhibitions from around the world, also provides the unique experience to touch, see, smell and interact with British Columbia’s history. As the Christmas holiday nears there is also the opportunity to experience 12 days of family friendly fun.

It may surprise you but there is a castle in Victoria! Craigdarroch Castle is a national historic site and, as Victoria can be closely compared to Europe, a quintessential experience during your visit. The Victorian-era Scottish Baronial mansion was built on a hill in the late 1800s and makes for the perfect afternoon activity. I did not take public transport while I was in Victoria so I made the long trek up to the top of the hill to visit. But, I will say even though it got steep at times it was a really great way to get a feel of the city. The grounds may be small when you compare them to the size of the home, but inside four floors of exquisite stained glass windows, intricate woodwork and Victorian-era furnishings reflect the crazy fortune of the Dunsmuir family.

WHERE TO EAT IN TO VICTORIA, BC

One thing that really surprised me were the multitude of delicious options in Victoria. I never really thought of it as a foodie city but the more I looked for places to eat and spoke with the locals the more I realized it’s a haven for Pacific Northwest cuisine.

For the best happy hour: Bodega

As a solo traveler I always look to local happy hours for dinnertime, especially on my first night in town. In my opinion it’s one of the best ways to not only have dinner on a budget but also meet and talk to the locals to help set up the rest of your visit. Canadians in general tend to be very friendly and helpful, which was my experience and more at the tapas and wine bar Bodega. I had a delicious charcuterie board, sampled different sherries (in honor of my grandpa’s favorite drink), and met a local winemaker who actually invited me to a fashion event at a local boutique later that night.

For the best prefix experience: Olo

Remember how I mentioned that woman I met at Bodega that invited me to the fashion event? Well, I ended up going and met another girl at the event who I then met the next night for dinner at Olo. Now I want to be perfectly clear…I had the duck dish as part of my experience and got some pretty intense food poisoning, making for a pretty horrible last night. But don’t knock Olo just because of my experience with that one dish. Everything else I had there was amazing and did not murder my stomach so it’s worth giving it a try!

For the best happy hour to dinner experience: Ferris

I had read about the amazing seafood at Ferris. I also ended up at Ferris because another restaurant I had, had on my list was closed for a holiday party, which ended up being the best twist of fate. I had some pretty fab local oysters and then an AMAZING Pappardelle dish with rabbit and shaved truffles and a bartender decision cocktail (basically I told the bartender what flavors I liked and he came up with the most delicious concoction).

For the best evening wine tasting: Bard & Banker

I mostly went to this place because of the ambiance and holiday décor, and while I was there decided it would be the best place for me to try some of the local BC wines. Originally the building opened as the Bank of British Columbia in 1885, and now more than 130 years later it’s a Scottish pub with an amazing interior, live music 7 days a week, and three different happy hour times 5 days a week.

For the best vegan food: Be Love

I knew I didn’t want to over indulge the entire time I was in town, which is what I feel on most trips, and why I always seek out at least one vegan restaurant. I had their Autumn Roll with black sesame dipping sauce and the mac and cheese, and HOLY CRAP was it good. The roll was seriously amazing; I would have eaten two more. And the Mac & Cheese was super hearty and full of veggies. It also happened to be the dish that made me realize I have an intolerance to cashews…oy vey my stomach issues.

For the best afternoon tea: The Empress Hotel

As I mentioned above, afternoon tea at The Empress is a treat yourself moment you must budget into your itinerary. Serving at the hotel since 1908, it’s a quintessentially Victoria experience allowing you to lounge in style on the same iconic china pattern King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (the Queen Mother) hosted a dinner on at the hotel in 1939. You can actually view many of the original pieces on display in the hotel! In addition to this The Empress also offers a dairy free option, which was perfect for me, as well as a to-go option in the summer, allowing you to experience all the tea, scones and small bites picnic style.

Four days in Victoria, which can equal an extended weekend, is the perfect amount of time to spend in this Canadian city full of European charm. Victoria’s mild weather also makes it the perfect winter destination allowing you to get the best of both worlds: outdoor adventures coupled with quintessential holiday experiences.

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